| Q:  What is 
            candied honey ?Q: 
 When 
            honey crystallises does that mean it’s off?
 Q:  What do 
            you do ?
 Q:  Where do 
            you keep your hives?
 Q:  How do 
            you know that the honey is a particular variety, say, Coolibah or 
            Yellow Box?The bees don’t tell you, do they?
 Q:  
How many 
            hives do you have?
 Q:  
Why do 
            you have to travel around so much?
 Q: 
 How do 
            you get the bees not to fly away when they’re on the 
            truck?
 Q:  
How many 
            sites for your hives do you have? How do you get to put your hives 
            on all these places? Do you have to pay for them?
 Q:  
Are all 
            the bees in the hive the same?
 Q:  
How is 
            Honey made?
 Q:  
If the 
            bees do all the work, what do you actually have to do?
 Q:  How do 
            you get the honey out of the frames?
 Q:  
What’s 
            the best type of honey?
 Q:  
Do you 
            eat a lot of honey yourselves?
 Q: 
 How 
            often do you get stung? And does it hurt?
 Q:  
How long 
            has honey been around?
 The 
            Battle of the Books
 
 
 Q: 
What is candied honey ? Chemically, 
honey is a 
solution of 
            sugars, minerals, acids and proteins 
dissolved 
in water. The 
sugars 
            account for around 
80% of the honey 
            while 
water 
only 
            makes up 
around 
            
17%. 
Since 
            there is a high 
content of 
sugars 
relative 
to water, the 
sugars 
            can't 
remain 
dissolved 
            in the 
honey 
and 
it is 
            common 
for 
            
them 
(mainly 
glucose) to 
form 
            crystals. 
When 
this 
happens 
            the 
honey is 
said to 
be 
'candied.'
 Candying 
is a naturally 
occuring process and how readily a honey 
            candies 
depends 
mainly 
            on its 
glucose and moisture 
content, 
although the 
conditions it 
is 
stored 
under can 
also 
contribute to 
            candying 
(storing honey in the 
fridge 
makes it candy 
faster). Some 
honeys 
like 
            yellow box 
for 
            
instance 
can take 
years 
to candy 
while others 
can 
candy 
overnight.
 
 In 
fact, 
honey 
has 
been found 
buried 
in 
Egyptian tombs and is 
            
still 
edible after 
thousands 
of 
years!
 
 (back to top)
 Q: When honey crystallises does 
            that 
mean it’s
 
off?
 No. In fact it’s a good sign because it’s a sign of 
the
 honey’s naturalness 
and wholesomeness. 
It’s 
simply some
 of the 
natural “bits” that 
make 
up honey, including 
specks
 
of pollen, 
binding 
            together. 
All 
honeys 
            candy but 
just 
not 
            in the 
same
 
timeframe because 
their 
composition is 
different 
based on 
the 
flowering
 
plant they 
come 
from. 
For example, 
yellow box honey is 
very 
slow to
 
            candy (say 
a 
            
couple 
of years) 
while 
some 
honey types 
can 
            candy 
overnight.
 We knew 
            a 
bloke who extracted 
napunyah honey one day and 
didn’t
 clear out the 
pipes from his extractor 
to his settling tank. 
He 
came
 
back 
the next 
day 
only to 
find 
his 
pipes 
full of rock 
solid 
honey.
 Not a job 
you’d want clearing that 
up!
 Don’t 
            throw 
out 
            
crystallised or 
candied 
honey. You can eat it
 
that way or if you 
want 
to re-liquefy it, 
stand the container in 
warm
 
water or microwave 
gently with the lid 
off.
 Honey itself 
won’t 
ever go off – 
it’ll 
only 
ferment
 if you get 
a lot 
            
of 
water in 
it. 
(In 
fact, that’s how in 
ancient
 
times they 
            
discovered mead 
which is 
fermented honey 
            and 
water and quite
 
alcoholic – by 
accidentally 
getting 
water in 
honey 
and 
leaving
 it). Honey kept 
sealed will last for 
ever. Some was found 
after thousands
 of 
years 
when 
they dug up 
an 
Egyptian pharaoh’s tomb 
and it was
 still 
edible.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: 
What do 
            you do ? We’re always getting asked about the practice of 
beekeeping.
 
Understandably if you’ve not done 
it and you 
don’t know
 any beekeepers, you 
wouldn’t know this stuff.
 Beekeeping is 
something 
            you 
learn 
the 
most from 
being 
hands 
on. It’s
 not the 
sort of 
stuff you can 
learn from 
a book or easily 
describe – you
 
really 
have to see, 
live 
and 
breath it. 
And 
after 
decades of 
doing
 it 
you’re still 
learning because 
bees 
are such 
            fascinating 
creatures
 
and there’s so 
many variables 
that 
go 
into it – namely
 
climatic 
conditions and 
the 
flowering patterns 
of 
trees and 
flowers.
 
But 
here’s a rough 
attempt at answering the 
more common questions
 we 
get asked. At the end 
we’ve also 
            
included some 
of 
the 
more
 quirky things 
about 
beekeeping 
and honey over history. 
They appeal
 
to us and 
make us 
feel a part of an 
age-old 
universal 
tradition.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: Where do you keep your 
            hives? There isn’t one place as such that we keep our hives. 
Beekeeping
 isn’t like 
other forms of farming, 
like, dairy or pig 
farming
 
where your stock 
is 
kept 
on your farm. We 
have to move our 
hives 
all
 
around the 
place to 
place them where trees 
are 
flowering. 
This is what
 produces 
the 
nectar 
that the bees 
collect and bring 
back to the hives
 to 
transform into 
            
honey. 
Our aim is to 
place 
hives where 
there 
is a 
“honey
 flow” and 
only 
leave them 
there as 
long 
as 
the flow 
continues.
 Once 
a flow 
dries 
up we need 
to 
move 
them 
along to the next 
place 
and
 the next 
honey 
flow.We cover 
an 
area with a radius 
of 
about 400kms. The 
furthest trip
 we’ve
 ever 
done in 
one night is 
from 
Mandurama 
in Central NSW 
to 
Eulo 
in
 Western Queensland – 
a trip of over 900 kms 
or a 10 hours 
            
drive.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: How do you know that the honey 
            is a 
particular
 variety, 
            say, 
Coolibah or 
YellowBox? 
The bees don’t tell you,
 
do they?
 In a way they do, because we know that a bee won’t fly 
past 
            a
 
good 
flowering 
tree to 
go and 
find 
honey 
elsewhere. If we 
locate the
 hives 
amongst 
a field of 
flowering 
canola, for 
example, or blossoming
 
coolibah 
trees, 
the bees 
will 
automatically go 
to 
those plants to 
collect
 
nectar. So our 
job 
is to 
really 
know 
our trees and 
flowers, 
understand
 
their 
flowering patterns 
and be in 
the 
right 
place 
at the 
right 
time.
 (back to top)
 Q: How many hives do you 
have?
 It varies from beekeeper to beekeeper and also from 
year to year.
 We will 
tend to “downsize” the 
number of hives during 
a 
bad
 season just 
because the conditions 
are such that the hives 
don’t
 
flourish and keep 
re-building 
            themselves 
as easily. But 
roughly in
 a 
reasonably 
good 
year we all have 
in the 
range of 800 
hives. In 
each
 
hive there’s about 
60,000 bees so we like 
to say that means 
we
 
have a workforce of 
millions so we can’t 
possibly know them all
 
by 
name! (back to top)
 Q: Why do you have to travel 
            around so 
much?
 We have to move the bees where the nectar is and that 
depends on
 trees and 
flowers being in blossom. 
It’s not uncommon 
for us 
to do
 
more 
than 
            
100,000kms a year 
going 
in search of good 
country and moving
 
bees 
around the 
place. 
Usually when we 
take 
bees to 
            a 
site, 
we’d
 leave them 
there 
for 
about 6 weeks 
but if 
a honey flow dries up 
and
 
the trees stop 
flowering, which 
            can 
sometimes happen in a 
matter of
 days, then we 
have to 
move them 
            
again. (back to top)
 Q: How do you get the bees not to 
            fly 
away when
 they’re on 
            the
 
            
truck?
 Basically we wait until it’s dark before we travel. 
That allows
 for the 
field bees who’ve been 
foraging throughout the 
day to
 come home 
to 
the 
hive as night 
falls. 
Bees have an 
amazingly strong
 
homing 
device – 
they’ll always 
            come 
back 
to their 
            particular
 
hive, 
not 
even the 
one right 
next 
to it, only 
inches 
away. If you move
 
the hive they 
get 
confused and 
flustered 
for a 
while 
until they 
find
 
where you’ve moved 
it to. But once 
they’ve 
settled 
into
 the 
hives 
at night, 
they 
won’t 
come out 
again, so 
that’s
 
when we 
pick them up and 
load them on the 
truck. 
Sometimes 
if we 
do
 it before 
they’re 
all 
back 
and 
inside , 
we’ll 
get huge 
“beards” 
of
 
bees clinging to 
the 
outside of the hive 
boxes and even the truck 
itself. (back to top)
 Q: How many sites for your hives 
            do you 
have? How 
do you 
            get to 
put
 your 
hives on 
all these 
places? 
Do you 
have to 
pay 
for 
them?
 Each beekeeper tends to have different sites even 
though they might
 live 
and be based in the 
same 
area, though 
            often we 
might “lend” someone
 a 
site. On 
average we’d 
have about 
250 
sites. 
You can’t
 rely on the 
same sites being 
in 
flower from season to 
            
season. Several
 years 
might go 
past when 
            a 
site is no 
good at all 
            and then 
one year
 it’ll 
            fire up. 
We’ve developed 
relationships with 
landowners
 over 
            the 
years 
whose places 
            we 
put bees on usually for 
about 
30kg of
 honey a 
year in 
return. Mostly 
we go 
on 
private 
land 
though some 
of
 our sites 
are 
government 
            owned 
and we 
pay fees 
            for 
those. 
Farmers 
like
 having us 
there 
because bees are 
good 
pollinators 
so it 
can 
help their
 crops. And 
they 
like 
knowing 
that a 
honey has come off 
            their land as
 well.
 (back to top)
 Q: Are all the bees in the hive 
            the 
same?
 Definitely not. Some say that bees have developed the 
perfect society
 where 
the workers (who are 
sexually undeveloped 
females) do all
 
the 
work. 
Another take 
on it is 
that the drones 
are 
typical males – fat
 
and lazy who are 
good 
for 
only one thing! 
Others would 
prefer to 
be
 the Queen – 
she gets 
to mate 
            with the drones 
of her choosing,
 then 
            
kill them 
but she 
then 
spends the 
rest of 
her life laying 
eggs.
 The facts 
            are 
that there are 3 
            
classes 
of bees – the Queen 
(only
 one per 
hive), the 
drones 
(males) and the workers 
(females).
 
 The 
Queen 
lays about 1500 to 
2000 
eggs a day.
 
 The 
            
drones 
            
simply 
exist to 
mate 
with the 
Queen. 
Their 
life 
involves
 only 
eating, sleeping and vying to be 
selected by 
the queen to
 
mate. Only 
about 1 in a hundred 
are 
selected and once 
the 
mating
 act is
 over 
the 
queen kills the 
drone by 
removing 
the 
sexual 
organ.
 The 
female 
bees, by 
contrast, are 
the 
industrious working 
bees
 
of 
the hives. They 
move 
through various 
phases of their working 
“career” 
starting
 
out as 
hive 
nurses that 
clean and 
cap cells and feed 
the 
            drones, queen
 
and 
the brood laid by 
the 
Queen. Then they progress to cleaning the
 
hive, packing pollen 
and building 
honeycomb. 
Next 
they become 
honey
 
ripeners, 
then 
hive 
guards 
preventing bees 
from 
other colonies and
 pests 
such as wasps 
            
entering 
the hive. 
Finally they 
act 
as scouts,
 who hunt 
out 
nectar sources 
and 
then 
graduate to 
become 
foragers who
 go 
out into 
the 
field 
foraging 
trees and 
flowers 
collecting 
nectar
 and 
pollen.
 
 You 
can read 
more about the 
different types of bees 
on some 
of
 the useful 
sites 
we’ve linked to 
below. They’ll give you more
 
detail about the 
different functions of 
each. 
What they 
won’t
 tell you 
is 
what 
it can 
be like 
trying to find the 
queen 
in a hive
 of 
thousands 
of 
bees. 
Sometimes 
we have 
to do 
this to 
either check
 
that there 
is 
still a 
live queen or to 
replace 
an aging queen 
with
 a new one. You 
can’t introduce a new 
queen into a hive which
 
still has one in 
it – 
the bees will 
kill 
the 
“invader”.
 But if 
the hive is 
queenless, 
they’ll 
adopt a 
            new 
one. 
Take 
the
 photo below 
– 
see if you can spot 
            the queen – she is the
 
            
one with the longer 
body 
than the others. If 
you can’t find her,
 
click here to 
see.
 (back to top)
 Q: How is Honey made?
 The bee hive is divided into different types of bees – 
the 
            queen,
 
[link 
back to 
section 
above where 
it talks 
about the queen] 
the 
workers
 [link 
back 
to section above 
where 
it talks about the 
workers] and the
 
drones 
[link back to 
section above where 
it 
talks about the 
drones].
 The 
scout 
bees 
fly off to 
find the 
nearest source of 
nectar 
and
 return to the 
hive 
and communicate 
this to 
the 
foraging 
bees 
by
 
doing a
 type of dance, 
either a “round dance” 
or a 
“waggle 
dance” 
depending
 how far 
away 
the 
source is. The 
foragers 
            then fly off and 
collect the
 nectar which 
they store in a 
pouch 
inside 
their 
body called 
the 
honey
 sac as well as 
packing pollen on the 
spines of their 
legs.
 
 When 
the 
forager 
returns to 
the hive 
she 
delivers the 
nectar 
from
 her honey sac to 
other worker bees who 
add enzymes which help 
turn
 
the
 nectar into 
honey. 
The workers place 
the nectar into 
honeycomb
 cells 
where it 
“ripens”, 
i.e. 
changes 
into 
honey. At 
this 
stage
 the nectar 
contains too much 
moisture so the bees fan 
their wings to
 
move air 
through the 
hive and 
remove 
excess 
moisture 
through 
evaporation.
 When fully 
ripened, the cells are 
“capped” by the bees
 
sealing the cells 
with 
beeswax so 
that no 
moisture 
can 
penetrate. 
The
 
honey is then ready 
for 
collection.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: If the bees do all the work, 
            what do 
you 
            
actually have 
to 
do?
 Our work follows a seasonal pattern. The busiest time 
by far is
 from Spring 
through to Autumn when 
the trees are in 
blossom 
and
 the bees’ honey
 
production is at 
its peak. During this 
time 
our focus is 
on 
ensuring
 
the hives are 
in 
the best place possible to 
capture available 
honey
 
flows so a lot of 
our 
time is taken 
scouring 
the countryside for 
flowering
 
plants 
and 
moving bees 
back and 
forward.
 When 
we’re 
not 
            moving 
the 
bees we’re 
            “working” 
them.
 
This is the part 
that 
takes years to 
            
really understand and 
it’s
 hard to describe 
except in simplistic 
terms. Working the bees 
includes
 
a range of 
activities – 
“under-supering”, brood 
checking,
 raising 
‘nuc’s’ or nucleus 
hives, feeding the bees,
 
checking 
            and 
replacing 
queens, 
assessing and 
applying 
certain 
            
management
 
practices to 
build hive 
numbers and 
maintain 
            healthy 
hives. 
The 
            list
 
goes 
on.
 
 One 
core activity 
is 
“under-supering” 
followed by 
collecting
 
            the honey. To 
            
follow 
this, 
you 
have to 
envisage a 
hive. 
Hives are 
made
 of timber 
boxes with a narrow entrance at 
one end 
and either 
8 or 10
 
frames 
hanging 
in 
each 
box. A hive 
generally consists of at 
least a “double” – 
that
 is, two boxes and 
more 
often a “triple” 
or 
even 
four boxes.
 The 
queen and brood cells 
are usually kept 
separate in the bottom 
box
 
away from the boxes 
used 
for honey-making 
and 
storage. An 
“excluder”,
 
a type of 
grate is 
            
placed 
between 
the 
bottom box 
and the 
rest of 
the
 hive – 
this 
            
prevents the queen 
from 
getting up into the 
other
 
boxes 
and 
laying 
eggs or brood 
in 
the 
boxes that 
we only 
            want 
to be
 
filled with 
            
honey.
 When 
we 
‘under-super” 
we 
first check 
that the 
honey 
box
 (super) is 
relatively full 
and the 
honey is ripe for 
collection. We
 
move 
the 
full super 
to the top of 
the 
stack 
and replace 
it 
with another
 for the 
            
bees to keep filling 
with 
honey. The 
            full 
super is 
left 
            overnight
 
            
separated from 
the 
rest of the 
stack by a clearer board which 
is 
a
 wooden board with a 
type of funnel in it 
that leads the bees to 
leave
 
this super and 
move down into the 
            super 
below to be with the 
rest of
 the 
colony. Once 
there, they 
            
cannot 
move 
back 
up and this 
ensures 
the
 bees are not in 
the 
super full of honey 
we 
take back to be 
extracted.
 We clear out 
any 
excess bees by 
blowing 
them out – 
using 
            
something
 
like a leaf 
            
blower.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: How do you get the honey out 
            of the 
frames? 
 We bring the boxes full of honey back to our 
extracting plants.
 There 
are 
            different 
types 
of 
extractors but 
the 
more 
common ones
 work 
using
 centrifugal force. 
First each 
            frame 
has 
to 
be “uncapped” 
which
 means slicing off 
            the 
wax that the bees have used to seal in the 
honey.
 We used to do 
this by hand with hot 
knives but now the 
frames go through
 
an 
automated 
uncapper. From 
there 
they are 
            hung in 
racks 
in the 
extractor
 
(usually a 
stainless 
steel covered 
container that 
            rotates 
at high speed)
 and 
effectively 
“spun” 
so 
that all the 
honey 
comes 
flying
 out and 
drains 
into a sump and 
then is 
piped 
along to a 
            
settling tank
 
before 
passing 
through to 
            the 
filling 
            
stage.
 At 
ABD, we 
ensure 
that the honey 
doesn’t 
            lose its 
character and
 
taste 
through 
over-processing, 
that is 
excessive 
            
filtering and 
heating
 which can 
affect 
the 
composition 
and 
taste of 
the end 
product. And
 we never 
blend one batch of honey 
with 
another. Our 
honey 
is 
really
 about as close 
as 
you can 
get it to the stuff 
that 
            comes 
fresh 
from
 the hive.
 
 (back to top)
 Q: What’s the best type of 
honey?
 There’s no such thing as “the best” type of honey.
 It comes down to personal preference 
just like you might prefer different
 wine 
varieties 
– for 
            example, 
chardonnay to 
riesling or 
pinot
 
noir to shiraz. 
Having 
said that, there 
are 
types of 
honey 
that 
are
 
generally regarded 
as 
better tasting and more 
popular as a result 
and
 
there are some that because they pick up 
the 
characteristics of 
the
 plant don’t taste 
quite so good. These are 
very rare though -
 
we’re 
lucky in 
Australia to have such good honeys as 
the norm,
 mainly from 
different types of 
eucalypts 
and 
other 
            native 
flora. Some
 of 
            the 
            
best-tasting, 
            most 
popular honey types 
include:* 
Mallee
 * Yellow 
Box
 * 
Coolibah
 * 
Mugga 
Ironbark
 * 
Spotted 
Gum
 * River Red 
Gum
 * Grey 
Ironbark
 * 
Clover
 * Red 
Stringybark
 * 
Napunyah
 * 
Leatherwood (unique to 
Tasmania)
 
 (back to top)
 Q: Do you eat a lot of honey 
yourselves? 
Absolutely! The Sunderland 
household, for example, goes through
 about a 
kilo a 
week. Of course we use it for more than just 
spreading
 on
 toast. 
Honey is 
incredibly versatile and we use it in 
cooking a
 
lot. We 
always 
use it in 
tea instead 
of 
sugar not 
just 
because
 
it tastes
 good 
but also 
because you 
need less for 
the same 
sweetness. 
Honey
 has 
always been 
recognised 
through history as 
being 
good for 
you
 and 
containing
 lots 
of 
essential vitamins 
and minerals - we also 
take 
a spoonful
 each night 
before going to bed 
because we find it 
makes us sleep
 
better.
 When it 
comes to cooking things 
we’ve found honey goes 
well with
 
include:
 * 
apples
 * beef
 * 
cardamom
 * 
carrots
 * cheese 
(particularly hard 
cheeses)
 * 
chicken
 * 
chocolate
 * 
cinnamon
 * 
cloves
 * cream and 
ice cream (and in milk 
shakes and 
smoothies)
 * 
cream 
cheeses and 
yoghurt
 * 
dried 
fruit
 * Fresh 
fruit especially figs and 
stone fruit like 
peaches 
and
 
nectarines
 * 
ginger
 * 
lemon
 * 
mustard
 * pepper
 * 
pork
 * prawns
 * 
nuts 
particularly almonds, macadamias and 
walnuts
 * 
scallops
 * soy sauce 
and of course
 * tea 
and toast
 
 (back to top)
 Q: How often do you get stung? 
            And does 
it 
hurt?
 Of course if we had a dollar for every time we’re 
asked this
 question we 
wouldn’t have to sell 
any more honey. We could 
all
 retire and 
keep 
bees.
 Yes, 
we do get 
stung. 
Often. 
Believe 
it or 
not, you 
can breed 
bees
 to be 
crankier 
or 
more gentle. 
Different things 
can also affect
 
whether 
they 
sting you – such as your 
own 
mood, the weather, 
what 
you’re
 
wearing.
 
 And yes, 
they always hurt but you 
do get used to it so 
they probably
 
don’t hurt 
us as 
much as a 
non-beekeeper. 
Doesn’t 
mean
 
you won’t hear 
language 
best not repeated here if you come 
out
 and see us get 
stung.
 (back to top)
 Q: How long has honey been 
around?
 Instead of dirt and poison we have rather chosen to 
fill our hives
 with 
honey and wax; thus 
furnishing mankind with 
the two noblest
 of 
things, 
which are 
sweetness and 
light. Jonathon 
Swift1667-1745
 
 (back to top)
 The Battle of 
the 
Books
 Honey through history and across the globeOne of the oldest known foods and 
used throughout the world, some
 of honey’s 
feature 
appearances 
include:
 * Adam and 
Eve 
living in the land 
of “milk and honey” 
until
 
they had to leave 
paradise
 * 
Stone-age 
cave 
paintings 
in 
Southern Spain depict a 
honey-gatherer
 
raiding a 
bees’ nest, 
showing 
mankind’s 
            early interest
 
in 
honey.
 * Honey 
being 
found in the tombs 
of 
the 
pharaohs 
            – still
 
perfect 
and right 
to eat 
after 
thousands of 
years
 * 
Honey being 
dropped by 
            God to 
Abraham in the desert as 
he
 
and his followers 
were 
fleeing persecution 
by the Egyptians
 * 
Hannibal carrying 
great 
jars of 
honey and 
vinegar 
to 
feed
 his army as they 
crossed the alps on the 
way to battle against
 
the
 Romans
 * Roman 
soldiers using 
honey to 
treat wounds 
after 
battles
 * 
Honey’s use 
for 
its 
            medicinal 
            
properties in 
            ancient 
Egyptian
 
texts, dating 
back 
to 2000BC with 
honey 
appearing in over 
            
500
 
of the 900 
prescriptions 
contained in the 
most 
famous of 
these
 
medical texts.
 * In 
India, an old Hindu 
tradition 
was the 
gift 
of honey 
and
 butter to welcome 
guests or the 
bridegroom.
 * 
It 
appears in 
Ancient 
Roman cookbooks 
and the 
Roman writer,
 
Virgil 
(70-19BC) 
wrote a 
whole book 
on the art 
of 
beekeeping.
 
 (back to top) |