Q: What is
candied honey ? Q:
When
honey crystallises does that mean it’s off? Q: What do
you do ? Q: Where do
you keep your hives? Q: How do
you know that the honey is a particular variety, say, Coolibah or
Yellow Box?The bees don’t tell you, do they? Q:
How many
hives do you have? Q:
Why do
you have to travel around so much? Q:
How do
you get the bees not to fly away when they’re on the
truck? Q:
How many
sites for your hives do you have? How do you get to put your hives
on all these places? Do you have to pay for them? Q:
Are all
the bees in the hive the same? Q:
How is
Honey made? Q:
If the
bees do all the work, what do you actually have to do? Q: How do
you get the honey out of the frames? Q:
What’s
the best type of honey? Q:
Do you
eat a lot of honey yourselves? Q:
How
often do you get stung? And does it hurt? Q:
How long
has honey been around?
The
Battle of the Books
Q:
What is candied honey ?
Chemically,
honey is a
solution of
sugars, minerals, acids and proteins
dissolved
in water. The
sugars
account for around
80% of the honey
while
water
only
makes up
around
17%.
Since
there is a high
content of
sugars
relative
to water, the
sugars
can't
remain
dissolved
in the
honey
and
it is
common
for
them
(mainly
glucose) to
form
crystals.
When
this
happens
the
honey is
said to
be
'candied.'
Candying
is a naturally
occuring process and how readily a honey
candies
depends
mainly
on its
glucose and moisture
content,
although the
conditions it
is
stored
under can
also
contribute to
candying
(storing honey in the
fridge
makes it candy
faster). Some
honeys
like
yellow box
for
instance
can take
years
to candy
while others
can
candy
overnight.
In
fact,
honey
has
been found
buried
in
Egyptian tombs and is
still
edible after
thousands
of
years!
(back to top)
Q: When honey crystallises does
that
mean it’s
off?
No. In fact it’s a good sign because it’s a sign of
the
honey’s naturalness
and wholesomeness.
It’s
simply some
of the
natural “bits” that
make
up honey, including
specks
of pollen,
binding
together.
All
honeys
candy but
just
not
in the
same
timeframe because
their
composition is
different
based on
the
flowering
plant they
come
from.
For example,
yellow box honey is
very
slow to
candy (say
a
couple
of years)
while
some
honey types
can
candy
overnight.
We knew
a
bloke who extracted
napunyah honey one day and
didn’t
clear out the
pipes from his extractor
to his settling tank.
He
came
back
the next
day
only to
find
his
pipes
full of rock
solid
honey.
Not a job
you’d want clearing that
up!
Don’t
throw
out
crystallised or
candied
honey. You can eat it
that way or if you
want
to re-liquefy it,
stand the container in
warm
water or microwave
gently with the lid
off.
Honey itself
won’t
ever go off –
it’ll
only
ferment
if you get
a lot
of
water in
it.
(In
fact, that’s how in
ancient
times they
discovered mead
which is
fermented honey
and
water and quite
alcoholic – by
accidentally
getting
water in
honey
and
leaving
it). Honey kept
sealed will last for
ever. Some was found
after thousands
of
years
when
they dug up
an
Egyptian pharaoh’s tomb
and it was
still
edible.
(back to top)
Q:
What do
you do ?
We’re always getting asked about the practice of
beekeeping.
Understandably if you’ve not done
it and you
don’t know
any beekeepers, you
wouldn’t know this stuff.
Beekeeping is
something
you
learn
the
most from
being
hands
on. It’s
not the
sort of
stuff you can
learn from
a book or easily
describe – you
really
have to see,
live
and
breath it.
And
after
decades of
doing
it
you’re still
learning because
bees
are such
fascinating
creatures
and there’s so
many variables
that
go
into it – namely
climatic
conditions and
the
flowering patterns
of
trees and
flowers.
But
here’s a rough
attempt at answering the
more common questions
we
get asked. At the end
we’ve also
included some
of
the
more
quirky things
about
beekeeping
and honey over history.
They appeal
to us and
make us
feel a part of an
age-old
universal
tradition.
(back to top)
Q: Where do you keep your
hives?
There isn’t one place as such that we keep our hives.
Beekeeping
isn’t like
other forms of farming,
like, dairy or pig
farming
where your stock
is
kept
on your farm. We
have to move our
hives
all
around the
place to
place them where trees
are
flowering.
This is what
produces
the
nectar
that the bees
collect and bring
back to the hives
to
transform into
honey.
Our aim is to
place
hives where
there
is a
“honey
flow” and
only
leave them
there as
long
as
the flow
continues.
Once
a flow
dries
up we need
to
move
them
along to the next
place
and
the next
honey
flow.
We cover
an
area with a radius
of
about 400kms. The
furthest trip
we’ve
ever
done in
one night is
from
Mandurama
in Central NSW
to
Eulo
in
Western Queensland –
a trip of over 900 kms
or a 10 hours
drive.
(back to top)
Q: How do you know that the honey
is a
particular
variety,
say,
Coolibah or
Yellow
Box?
The bees don’t tell you,
do they?
In a way they do, because we know that a bee won’t fly
past
a
good
flowering
tree to
go and
find
honey
elsewhere. If we
locate the
hives
amongst
a field of
flowering
canola, for
example, or blossoming
coolibah
trees,
the bees
will
automatically go
to
those plants to
collect
nectar. So our
job
is to
really
know
our trees and
flowers,
understand
their
flowering patterns
and be in
the
right
place
at the
right
time.
(back to top)
Q: How many hives do you
have?
It varies from beekeeper to beekeeper and also from
year to year.
We will
tend to “downsize” the
number of hives during
a
bad
season just
because the conditions
are such that the hives
don’t
flourish and keep
re-building
themselves
as easily. But
roughly in
a
reasonably
good
year we all have
in the
range of 800
hives. In
each
hive there’s about
60,000 bees so we like
to say that means
we
have a workforce of
millions so we can’t
possibly know them all
by
name!
(back to top)
Q: Why do you have to travel
around so
much?
We have to move the bees where the nectar is and that
depends on
trees and
flowers being in blossom.
It’s not uncommon
for us
to do
more
than
100,000kms a year
going
in search of good
country and moving
bees
around the
place.
Usually when we
take
bees to
a
site,
we’d
leave them
there
for
about 6 weeks
but if
a honey flow dries up
and
the trees stop
flowering, which
can
sometimes happen in a
matter of
days, then we
have to
move them
again.
(back to top)
Q: How do you get the bees not to
fly
away when
they’re on
the
truck?
Basically we wait until it’s dark before we travel.
That allows
for the
field bees who’ve been
foraging throughout the
day to
come home
to
the
hive as night
falls.
Bees have an
amazingly strong
homing
device –
they’ll always
come
back
to their
particular
hive,
not
even the
one right
next
to it, only
inches
away. If you move
the hive they
get
confused and
flustered
for a
while
until they
find
where you’ve moved
it to. But once
they’ve
settled
into
the
hives
at night,
they
won’t
come out
again, so
that’s
when we
pick them up and
load them on the
truck.
Sometimes
if we
do
it before
they’re
all
back
and
inside ,
we’ll
get huge
“beards”
of
bees clinging to
the
outside of the hive
boxes and even the truck
itself.
(back to top)
Q: How many sites for your hives
do you
have? How
do you
get to
put
your
hives on
all these
places?
Do you
have to
pay
for
them?
Each beekeeper tends to have different sites even
though they might
live
and be based in the
same
area, though
often we
might “lend” someone
a
site. On
average we’d
have about
250
sites.
You can’t
rely on the
same sites being
in
flower from season to
season. Several
years
might go
past when
a
site is no
good at all
and then
one year
it’ll
fire up.
We’ve developed
relationships with
landowners
over
the
years
whose places
we
put bees on usually for
about
30kg of
honey a
year in
return. Mostly
we go
on
private
land
though some
of
our sites
are
government
owned
and we
pay fees
for
those.
Farmers
like
having us
there
because bees are
good
pollinators
so it
can
help their
crops. And
they
like
knowing
that a
honey has come off
their land as
well.
(back to top)
Q: Are all the bees in the hive
the
same?
Definitely not. Some say that bees have developed the
perfect society
where
the workers (who are
sexually undeveloped
females) do all
the
work.
Another take
on it is
that the drones
are
typical males – fat
and lazy who are
good
for
only one thing!
Others would
prefer to
be
the Queen –
she gets
to mate
with the drones
of her choosing,
then
kill them
but she
then
spends the
rest of
her life laying
eggs.
The facts
are
that there are 3
classes
of bees – the Queen
(only
one per
hive), the
drones
(males) and the workers
(females).
The
Queen
lays about 1500 to
2000
eggs a day.
The
drones
simply
exist to
mate
with the
Queen.
Their
life
involves
only
eating, sleeping and vying to be
selected by
the queen to
mate. Only
about 1 in a hundred
are
selected and once
the
mating
act is
over
the
queen kills the
drone by
removing
the
sexual
organ.
The
female
bees, by
contrast, are
the
industrious working
bees
of
the hives. They
move
through various
phases of their working
“career”
starting
out as
hive
nurses that
clean and
cap cells and feed
the
drones, queen
and
the brood laid by
the
Queen. Then they progress to cleaning the
hive, packing pollen
and building
honeycomb.
Next
they become
honey
ripeners,
then
hive
guards
preventing bees
from
other colonies and
pests
such as wasps
entering
the hive.
Finally they
act
as scouts,
who hunt
out
nectar sources
and
then
graduate to
become
foragers who
go
out into
the
field
foraging
trees and
flowers
collecting
nectar
and
pollen.
You
can read
more about the
different types of bees
on some
of
the useful
sites
we’ve linked to
below. They’ll give you more
detail about the
different functions of
each.
What they
won’t
tell you
is
what
it can
be like
trying to find the
queen
in a hive
of
thousands
of
bees.
Sometimes
we have
to do
this to
either check
that there
is
still a
live queen or to
replace
an aging queen
with
a new one. You
can’t introduce a new
queen into a hive which
still has one in
it –
the bees will
kill
the
“invader”.
But if
the hive is
queenless,
they’ll
adopt a
new
one.
Take
the
photo below
–
see if you can spot
the queen – she is the
one with the longer
body
than the others. If
you can’t find her,
click here to
see.
(back to top)
Q: How is Honey made?
The bee hive is divided into different types of bees –
the
queen,
[link
back to
section
above where
it talks
about the queen]
the
workers
[link
back
to section above
where
it talks about the
workers] and the
drones
[link back to
section above where
it
talks about the
drones].
The
scout
bees
fly off to
find the
nearest source of
nectar
and
return to the
hive
and communicate
this to
the
foraging
bees
by
doing a
type of dance,
either a “round dance”
or a
“waggle
dance”
depending
how far
away
the
source is. The
foragers
then fly off and
collect the
nectar which
they store in a
pouch
inside
their
body called
the
honey
sac as well as
packing pollen on the
spines of their
legs.
When
the
forager
returns to
the hive
she
delivers the
nectar
from
her honey sac to
other worker bees who
add enzymes which help
turn
the
nectar into
honey.
The workers place
the nectar into
honeycomb
cells
where it
“ripens”,
i.e.
changes
into
honey. At
this
stage
the nectar
contains too much
moisture so the bees fan
their wings to
move air
through the
hive and
remove
excess
moisture
through
evaporation.
When fully
ripened, the cells are
“capped” by the bees
sealing the cells
with
beeswax so
that no
moisture
can
penetrate.
The
honey is then ready
for
collection.
(back to top)
Q: If the bees do all the work,
what do
you
actually have
to
do?
Our work follows a seasonal pattern. The busiest time
by far is
from Spring
through to Autumn when
the trees are in
blossom
and
the bees’ honey
production is at
its peak. During this
time
our focus is
on
ensuring
the hives are
in
the best place possible to
capture available
honey
flows so a lot of
our
time is taken
scouring
the countryside for
flowering
plants
and
moving bees
back and
forward.
When
we’re
not
moving
the
bees we’re
“working”
them.
This is the part
that
takes years to
really understand and
it’s
hard to describe
except in simplistic
terms. Working the bees
includes
a range of
activities –
“under-supering”, brood
checking,
raising
‘nuc’s’ or nucleus
hives, feeding the bees,
checking
and
replacing
queens,
assessing and
applying
certain
management
practices to
build hive
numbers and
maintain
healthy
hives.
The
list
goes
on.
One
core activity
is
“under-supering”
followed by
collecting
the honey. To
follow
this,
you
have to
envisage a
hive.
Hives are
made
of timber
boxes with a narrow entrance at
one end
and either
8 or 10
frames
hanging
in
each
box. A hive
generally consists of at
least a “double” –
that
is, two boxes and
more
often a “triple”
or
even
four boxes.
The
queen and brood cells
are usually kept
separate in the bottom
box
away from the boxes
used
for honey-making
and
storage. An
“excluder”,
a type of
grate is
placed
between
the
bottom box
and the
rest of
the
hive –
this
prevents the queen
from
getting up into the
other
boxes
and
laying
eggs or brood
in
the
boxes that
we only
want
to be
filled with
honey.
When
we
‘under-super”
we
first check
that the
honey
box
(super) is
relatively full
and the
honey is ripe for
collection. We
move
the
full super
to the top of
the
stack
and replace
it
with another
for the
bees to keep filling
with
honey. The
full
super is
left
overnight
separated from
the
rest of the
stack by a clearer board which
is
a
wooden board with a
type of funnel in it
that leads the bees to
leave
this super and
move down into the
super
below to be with the
rest of
the
colony. Once
there, they
cannot
move
back
up and this
ensures
the
bees are not in
the
super full of honey
we
take back to be
extracted.
We clear out
any
excess bees by
blowing
them out –
using
something
like a leaf
blower.
(back to top)
Q: How do you get the honey out
of the
frames?
We bring the boxes full of honey back to our
extracting plants.
There
are
different
types
of
extractors but
the
more
common ones
work
using
centrifugal force.
First each
frame
has
to
be “uncapped”
which
means slicing off
the
wax that the bees have used to seal in the
honey.
We used to do
this by hand with hot
knives but now the
frames go through
an
automated
uncapper. From
there
they are
hung in
racks
in the
extractor
(usually a
stainless
steel covered
container that
rotates
at high speed)
and
effectively
“spun”
so
that all the
honey
comes
flying
out and
drains
into a sump and
then is
piped
along to a
settling tank
before
passing
through to
the
filling
stage.
At
ABD, we
ensure
that the honey
doesn’t
lose its
character and
taste
through
over-processing,
that is
excessive
filtering and
heating
which can
affect
the
composition
and
taste of
the end
product. And
we never
blend one batch of honey
with
another. Our
honey
is
really
about as close
as
you can
get it to the stuff
that
comes
fresh
from
the hive.
(back to top)
Q: What’s the best type of
honey?
There’s no such thing as “the best” type of honey.
It comes down to personal preference
just like you might prefer different
wine
varieties
– for
example,
chardonnay to
riesling or
pinot
noir to shiraz.
Having
said that, there
are
types of
honey
that
are
generally regarded
as
better tasting and more
popular as a result
and
there are some that because they pick up
the
characteristics of
the
plant don’t taste
quite so good. These are
very rare though -
we’re
lucky in
Australia to have such good honeys as
the norm,
mainly from
different types of
eucalypts
and
other
native
flora. Some
of
the
best-tasting,
most
popular honey types
include:
*
Mallee
* Yellow
Box
*
Coolibah
*
Mugga
Ironbark
*
Spotted
Gum
* River Red
Gum
* Grey
Ironbark
*
Clover
* Red
Stringybark
*
Napunyah
*
Leatherwood (unique to
Tasmania)
(back to top)
Q: Do you eat a lot of honey
yourselves?
Absolutely! The Sunderland
household, for example, goes through
about a
kilo a
week. Of course we use it for more than just
spreading
on
toast.
Honey is
incredibly versatile and we use it in
cooking a
lot. We
always
use it in
tea instead
of
sugar not
just
because
it tastes
good
but also
because you
need less for
the same
sweetness.
Honey
has
always been
recognised
through history as
being
good for
you
and
containing
lots
of
essential vitamins
and minerals - we also
take
a spoonful
each night
before going to bed
because we find it
makes us sleep
better.
When it
comes to cooking things
we’ve found honey goes
well with
include:
*
apples
* beef
*
cardamom
*
carrots
* cheese
(particularly hard
cheeses)
*
chicken
*
chocolate
*
cinnamon
*
cloves
* cream and
ice cream (and in milk
shakes and
smoothies)
*
cream
cheeses and
yoghurt
*
dried
fruit
* Fresh
fruit especially figs and
stone fruit like
peaches
and
nectarines
*
ginger
*
lemon
*
mustard
* pepper
*
pork
* prawns
*
nuts
particularly almonds, macadamias and
walnuts
*
scallops
* soy sauce
and of course
* tea
and toast
(back to top)
Q: How often do you get stung?
And does
it
hurt?
Of course if we had a dollar for every time we’re
asked this
question we
wouldn’t have to sell
any more honey. We could
all
retire and
keep
bees.
Yes,
we do get
stung.
Often.
Believe
it or
not, you
can breed
bees
to be
crankier
or
more gentle.
Different things
can also affect
whether
they
sting you – such as your
own
mood, the weather,
what
you’re
wearing.
And yes,
they always hurt but you
do get used to it so
they probably
don’t hurt
us as
much as a
non-beekeeper.
Doesn’t
mean
you won’t hear
language
best not repeated here if you come
out
and see us get
stung.
(back to top)
Q: How long has honey been
around?
Instead of dirt and poison we have rather chosen to
fill our hives
with
honey and wax; thus
furnishing mankind with
the two noblest
of
things,
which are
sweetness and
light.
Jonathon
Swift
1667-1745
(back to top)
The Battle of
the
Books
Honey through history and across the globe
One of the oldest known foods and
used throughout the world, some
of honey’s
feature
appearances
include:
* Adam and
Eve
living in the land
of “milk and honey”
until
they had to leave
paradise
*
Stone-age
cave
paintings
in
Southern Spain depict a
honey-gatherer
raiding a
bees’ nest,
showing
mankind’s
early interest
in
honey.
* Honey
being
found in the tombs
of
the
pharaohs
– still
perfect
and right
to eat
after
thousands of
years
*
Honey being
dropped by
God to
Abraham in the desert as
he
and his followers
were
fleeing persecution
by the Egyptians
*
Hannibal carrying
great
jars of
honey and
vinegar
to
feed
his army as they
crossed the alps on the
way to battle against
the
Romans
* Roman
soldiers using
honey to
treat wounds
after
battles
*
Honey’s use
for
its
medicinal
properties in
ancient
Egyptian
texts, dating
back
to 2000BC with
honey
appearing in over
500
of the 900
prescriptions
contained in the
most
famous of
these
medical texts.
* In
India, an old Hindu
tradition
was the
gift
of honey
and
butter to welcome
guests or the
bridegroom.
*
It
appears in
Ancient
Roman cookbooks
and the
Roman writer,
Virgil
(70-19BC)
wrote a
whole book
on the art
of
beekeeping.
(back to top) |